Harbor Friendly Yards

<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0><tr> <td valign="top" colspan=2 height=160 BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF" TEXT="#080000"> <div> <B><IMG SRC="24af46b0.jpg" border=0 width="500" height="107" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">   </B></div> <div> <A HREF="id125.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="MISSION"><U><B>MISSION</B></U></A><B>   |   </B><A HREF="id127.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="WHAT TO DO?"><U><B>WHAT TO DO?</B></U></A><B>   |   </B><A HREF="id132.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="JOIN CUSH"><U><B>JOIN CUSH</B></U></A><B>   |   </B><A HREF="id135.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="POLLUTION SOURCES"><U><B>POLLUTION SOURCES</B></U></A><B>   |   </B><A HREF="id136.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="MEDIA"><U><B>MEDIA</B></U></A><B>   |   </B><A HREF="id137.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="WATER TESTING"><U><B>WATER TESTING</B></U></A><B>    </B><FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#006666" FACE="Book Antiqua" ><B> </B><A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="CUSH HOME PAGE"><U><B>HOME PAGE</B></U></A></FONT></div> <div> </div> </td> </tr><tr> <td valign="top" width=275 BGCOLOR="#006666" TEXT="#080000"> <div> <IMG SRC="24eb44e0.jpg" border=0 width="180" height="78" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id141.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Harbor Friendly Yards"><U>Harbor Friendly Yards</U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id142.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="How Can Boaters Help?"><U>How Can Boaters Help?</U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id128.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Next Meeting"><U>Next Meeting</U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id129.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Past Meetings"><U>Past Meetings</U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id130.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Lectures"><U>Lectures</U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id131.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Water Testing Plans"><U>Water Testing Plans</U></A></div> <bR> <div> Watch for Youth Activities</div> <div> in the future</div> </td> <td valign="top" height=320 BGCOLOR="#FFFFCC" TEXT="#080000"> <div> <TABLE BORDER="10" CELLPADDING="8" CELLSPACING="5" WIDTH="682" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#CC9933" BORDERCOLORDARK="#006666" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF HEIGHT= 3898 ><NOBR><div> <B><U>Harbor Friendly Yards</U></B></div> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="0" CELLPADDING="1" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="640" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="VOID" RULES="NONE" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 3774 WIDTH="636"><div> <A HREF="id147.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Harbor Friendly Yards Signup"><U><B>Click Here</B></U></A><B> </B><FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#BF0000" FACE="Book Antiqua" ><B>for Harbor Friendly Yards Sign-up Sheet.</B></FONT></div> <bR> <div> <B>from BACKYARDS ON THE BAY</B></div> <div> <B>A Yard Care Guide for the Coastal Homeowner*</B></div> <div> <B> <A NAME="mowing"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></B><B>MOWING TECHNIQUES AND TIPS </B></div> <div> <B>Keep your lawn small:</B></div> <div> Minimize the size of your lawn to save time and money on mowing and watering. By mowing a smaller area you will encourage a natural buffer to re-establish itself between your managed landscape and the Bay.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Select a drought and disease tolerant grass seed. Red fescue and chewing fescue are drought-tolerant; tall and fine fescues require less nitrogen and need less fertilizer, if any. Fine fescues can tolerate both sun and shade. Endophytic grasses are pest resistant. Avoid Kentucky bluegrass since it requires regular watering and high fertilizer applications. </div> <div> <B>Set your mower at three inches:</B></div> <div> Grass at a height of three inches creates a healthier root system and decreases the need for water and fertilizer.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Grass kept at three inches shades the ground, preventing most of the sun-loving weeds such as crab grass from growing. Longer grass is more drought-tolerant and insect and disease resistant.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> As a general rule of thumb, do not cut off more than one third of the grass' height in any one mowing.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>Leave the clippings where they fall:</B></div> <div> Grass clippings left on the lawn reduce water evaporation and keep the soil cooler during hot weather.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Clippings don't cause thatch buildup. Overuse of fertilizer and over-watering causes rapid and excessive growth and can cause thatch buildup.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Clippings are 85 percent water and five percent nitrogen. When left on the lawn, they return water and nutrients to the soil. Clippings can provide up to 30 percent of your lawn's fertilizer requirement. A mulching mower cuts the clippings smaller for quick decomposition.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <bR> <div> <B>*Reprinted by CUSH, Inc. with permission from Save The Bay.  For the complete on-line guide, go to </B><FONT SIZE="1" COLOR="#FF0000" FACE="Arial" ><A HREF="http://www.savebay.info/backyardbay" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.savebay.info/backyardbay"><U><B><U>www.savebay.info/backyardbay</U></B></U></A></FONT></div> <bR> <div> <B>Please don't mow the marsh:</B></div> <div> Not only is it<B> illegal</B> to cut salt marsh grasses and other plants, salt marshes provide critical feeding and nursery areas for coastal birds, shellfish, crabs and many other Bay species too numerous to count. Learn where your yard ends and the marsh begins. </div> <div> An undisturbed natural buffer between your yard and the salt marsh (as small as 15 feet) acts as a good filter to prevent nutrients and sediments from damaging coastal habitats.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Native coastal plants help prevent erosion of your shoreline. Native shrubs hold the soil in place with their deep root system in comparison to a lawn that has a minimal root system.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>Create a "No Mow Zone" next to the marsh:</B></div> <div> Move your mow line back from the shoreline's edge. Many salt marsh plants or native upland buffer plants will come back naturally without planting such as high tide bush and seaside goldenrod.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <B> <A NAME="watering"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></B><B>WATERING TIPS</B></div> <div> <B>Just say no to H20:</B></div> <div> Native coastal plants and rye and fescue lawn mixtures do not need watering to survive the dry summer months.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Most lawns in New England will survive without watering. Healthy, well-established lawns that turn brown during hot dry periods are dormant, not dead. They will green up again during the wetter fall season.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>If you must water, morning is better:</B></div> <div> Watering in the early morning (before 9 a.m.) reduces evaporation and prevents sun scalding. Don't water at all if the day is cloudy or humid. Any water that does not evaporate off the grass blades during the day can help speed fungus and other diseases.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Lawns and plants watered in the evening remain wet longer, promoting diseases such as fungus.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>Don't over water:</B></div> <div> Over watering can cause any fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides to flow into the Bay or leach into the groundwater.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> If you chose to water, do so no more than once a week with an inch of water. Place a rain gauge in the sprinkler zone to measure the right amount. If it has rained in the past week, only water enough to make an inch.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Avoid frequent watering. Water slowly and deeply to help develop the depth of your lawn's roots versus frequent light watering which encourages shallow, more vulnerable root growth.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Using soaker hoses or drip irrigation in landscape plantings will get water more efficiently to the plant's roots and will reduce evaporation.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <B> <A NAME="fertilizer"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></B><B> FERTILIZER TIPS</B></div> <div> <B>Go native and avoid costly fertilizers:</B></div> <div> Native coastal plants do not require fertilizing.</div> <div> Using little or no fertilizer on your lawn to save time on frequent mowing.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>Test your soil:</B></div> <div> Maintaining proper soil pH of 6.5 results in better retention of nutrients which reduces the need to fertilize. Soil tests will help determine if you should apply lime.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Soil testing is available through the University of Rhode Island's Cooperative Extension Service. Call 1-800-448-1011 to learn how to get your soil tested.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>Don't feed the Bay:</B></div> <div> If you choose to fertilize your lawn, half an application of slow release fertilizer applied in late April and a full application in September should be plenty for your lawn. Fall fertilizing will promote healthy root growth.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Do not over water after fertilizing. Fertilizer on your lawn can leach into the groundwater perhaps endangering drinking water supplies or can wash off into the Bay, causing algae blooms. As the algae dies off, the breakdown of the algae can cause low oxygen levels leading to fish kills.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Be careful not to apply fertilizer to sidewalks, driveways or walkways. Sweep up any fertilizer on paved surfaces. Fertilizer left on paved surfaces can run directly into the nearest storm drain and eventually into the Bay.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>Use organic fertilizers:</B></div> <div> There are many organic products on the market including animal manures, cottonseed, bone meal, fish emulsion or plain old compost. Organic fertilizers contain low concentrations of nutrients, however they have the added benefit of increasing soil moisture retention and providing minerals and trace elements not found in chemical fertilizers.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Organic fertilizers release nutrients gradually as they decompose so they are available to the plants for longer periods of time and are less likely to runoff into the Bay.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>Use water insoluble fertilizers:</B></div> <div> Most synthetic fertilizers are high in soluble nitrogen that results in a quick but not necessarily healthy greening of your lawn.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Water insoluble fertilizers release nitrogen slowly over extended periods of time so they are not as likely to leach into groundwater or cause water quality problems in nearby water bodies. These fertilizers are typically marketed as "slow release" products.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Select fertilizers with more than 50 percent Water Insoluble Nitrogen (WIN).<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> All fertilizers are labeled with three numbers. These are the fertilizer ingredients labeled as "guaranteed analysis" (e.g. 20-4-10). The first number refers to the percent nitrogen, the second number refers to the percent phosphorus and third number refers to the percent potassium.</div> <div> Divide the percent water-insoluble nitrogen in the fertilizer by the percent of total nitrogen in the fertilizer.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Then multiply the result by 100 to get the percentage of WIN.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> For example, a bag of 20-4-10 contains 20 percent nitrogen. If the guaranteed analysis shows 10 percent water insoluble nitrogen in the fertilizer, then 50 percent of the total nitrogen is water insoluble.</div> <div> Did you know … On average, homeowners use up to ten times more chemical fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides per acre than farmers do.</div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <B> <A NAME="weed"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></B><B>WEED AND PEST CONTROL TIPS</B></div> <div> <B>Identify the pest or weed before taking action:</B></div> <div> Weeds can be a symptom of soil problems such as being too acidic or too compacted.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Test your soil and correct the soil deficiencies.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>Encourage natural pest predators in your garden:</B></div> <div> Natural predators, such as ladybugs, lacewings, toads and preying mantis will prey upon garden pests.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Plant a variety of flowering plants that will attract natural predators as well as beneficial insects such as butterflies and bees.</div> <div> <B>Prevent Weeds and Pests:</B></div> <div> Control weeds before they become a problem. Weed by hand before they go to seed and then mulch to keep weeds from coming back.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> It is simpler to prevent pests rather than to kill pests. Use disease resistant native grasses and plants.  Clean up dead perennials and plants in the fall to prevent pests.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Plant pest resistant native plants listed as pest resistant by URI's <I>Sustainable Trees and Shrubs for Southern New England</I>)<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>Identify the pest first:</B></div> <div> Contact the Master Gardener hotline at 1-800-448-1011 to help identify the type of pest causing the damage and to determine an organic solution. Most yards have both beneficial and damaging insects.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>Minimize or eliminate the use of pesticides:</B></div> <div> Pesticides may not harm your plants but they can harm wildlife and your health.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Accept minor damage of plants from disease and insects.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Remove eggs, larvae, cocoons and the adult larvae by hand.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Use natural pest control options such as horticultural oil sprays, boric acid for ants, Bt <I>Bacillus thuringiensis</I> for larvae and caterpillars, dehydrating dusts (diatomaceous earth and silica gel), pyrethrin-based sprays and soap solutions.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Always follow label precautions and directions.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>Do not use "Weed and Feed" products:</B></div> <div> Broad-spectrum pesticides are not selective and they will even kill beneficial insects.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Only use pesticides as a last resort when other methods have failed.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>Dispose of unused pesticides properly:</B></div> <div> Homeowners can dispose of hazardous materials at the Rhode Island Department of Environmental Management's ECO-Depot, call (401) 222-4700 ext. 4434.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>Safer solutions for pests</B></div> <div> <I><B>Insecticidal soap</B></I><I>: </I>make your own effective spray with two and a half tablespoons liquid dish soap in one gallon of water. Spray liberally on affected plants and repeat application if necessary.</div> <div> <I><B>Horticultural oils</B></I><I>:</I> Labeled as such at garden centers, these products are used as sprays. To make your own oil spray, mix 2 tablespoons light vegetable oil, two tablespoons liquid dish soap, and one gallon of water.</div> <div> <I><B>Bacillus thuringensis (Bt): </B></I>A bacterium that infects and controls caterpillars. Available commercially in liquid spray form or dusting powder. This is good for most types of caterpillar pest species.</div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <B> <A NAME="yardwaste"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></B><B>YARD WASTE TIPS</B></div> <div> <B>Compost it:</B></div> <div> Yard and vegetable scraps will provide free mulch and supply you with a natural Bay-friendly alternative to chemical fertilizers. For tips on composting or where you can purchase a low-cost composter, call the Department of Environmental Management at 222-3434. Ask for their composting brochure.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Add compost to your soil to improve the soil structure and its ability to hold water and to reduce or even eliminate the need for fertilizing.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Shred leaves with your mower and then add them to your compost pile. Let fallen leaves remain in natural areas along the shoreline. The leaves provide natural mulch and slow and filter water running off your managed landscape.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>Don't pile yard waste near or on the shoreline:</B></div> <div> Piling and dumping brush or grass clippings in the marsh or along the shoreline can smother and kill native grasses and coastal plants. Do not locate compost piles near the shoreline, salt marsh or streams.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Yard waste dumped along the shore adds unnecessary nutrients to the Bay. As grass clippings and leaves decompose, they release nitrogen that contributes to nuisance algae blooms.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> It is <B>illegal</B> to dump yard waste and grass clippings in coastal marshes and on the shoreline.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <B> <A NAME="stormwater"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></B><B>STORMWATER CONTROL TIPS</B></div> <div> Rain runoff, also known as stormwater, can carry gas, oil, and other pollutants from your driveway, soil from exposed or disturbed areas and excess fertilizers from your yard directly into the Bay. Stormwater can also create or worsen shoreline erosion. To reduce the impact of stormwater:</div> <div> Reduce the pollutants that might be carried by runoff.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Redirect and minimize the amount of runoff.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>Minimize the use of impervious surfaces:</B></div> <div> Use alternatives to concrete and asphalt such as gravel, crushed stone or crushed shells for driveways and blue stone or field stone set in stone dust or sand for walkways.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>Minimize bare and exposed soil:</B></div> <div> Place straw over tilled vegetable gardens or newly planted grass to prevent precious topsoil from being washed away by rainfall .<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Plant groundcovers and/or bushes on steeper slopes. Groundcovers have deeper root systems than grass and can better hold the soil in place.<B> </B>Leave native trees and shrubs on slopes.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> <B>Make your yard a sponge:</B></div> <div> Trees, shrubs, grass and groundcovers slow down stormwater and help water soak into the soil.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Direct down spouts from your roof onto flat grassy or gravel areas.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> Plant shrubs around driveways and direct runoff to planted area to encourage groundwater recharge.<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" > </FONT></div> <div> If you hire a landscape maintenance service, ensure that the landscape service provider follows the tips outlined in each of the Tip sections. Ask your landscaper to use organic fertilizers and alternative pest control strategies.</div> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 13 WIDTH="636"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="13" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="636" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 20 WIDTH="636"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="20" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="636" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <bR> <bR> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <div> <B>Restoring Stonington Harbors to Pristine Condition</B></div> <bR> </td> </tr></table></body>